Today, on the sixth anniversary of Hurricane Katrina, Louisiana and Mississippi are battling a sharp decline in the oyster population, which may not recover until 2013 now that a two-year influx of fresh water has killed off millions of the mollusks.

I hate to hear this news. Oysters are wonderful things. In fact, my mouth is still watering from the Apalachicola, Fla., oysters my; friend Steve fried in cornmeal over the weekend at Lake Blue Ridge, Ga.